Today I am reviewing a watch that should be a staple in any watch collection – the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Professional. I would go so far as to say if you could only buy one luxury watch – this might be it. Hailed as one of the quintessential timepieces of the 20th and 21st century, it’s easy to see why even James Bond wears this watch – Omega has perfected the dive watch and done it in a way that is still incredibly elegant, unique and practical. Many commentators and collectors laude the Seamaster’s incredible specs and timeless design – a combination that is difficult to execute in today’s modern world of homages and increasingly complex watch designs.
Omega’s first Seamaster hit stores in 1948 as a dress-watch variant, but was quickly updated in 1957 to a more dive-oriented Seamaster Diver “Professional 200” (with water resistant up to 200m) that the current generation draws inspiration from. The modern version of the Seamaster Professional Diver was developed in the early 90’s and included many of the design cues used in the current version: a helium escape valve “tumor”, a scallop-edged unidirectional diver’s bezel, skeletonized hands for legibility, an engraved wave-patterned dial and a 5-link bracelet. First worn by Pierce Brosnan in Goldeneye, the Seamaster Professional Diver became synonymous with both luxury and practicality – a feat that not many other watches have achieved.
Most watches fit a specific niche. Dress watches have clean dials and simple designs, while tool watches have more rugged designs and easily-readable dials. Some watches get even more specific like the Rolex YachtMaster 2’s regatta timing function or Breitling’s Navitimer which is really just a fancy analog calculator. The Omega Seamaster Diver is one of the few watches (other than the classic Rolex Submariner) that can easily transition from a diving session to a formal occasion. I can say this confidently because I have actually worn this watch the entire day on the beach and then put a suit on for an evening wedding ceremony, and I didn’t take the watch off once (and yes, that even includes in the shower).
But what makes the Omega Seamaster Diver Professional one of the best watches on the market? Is it the sweet-spot of less $6,000, often with further discounts (and the fact that you can walk into an authorized dealer and not get laughed out of the store requesting this watch)? Or the 300m of water resistance that lets you comfortably use this watch in any aquatic adventure you might find yourself in? Perhaps it is the flawless ceramic bezel and reflective wave-patterned dial that catches light at all angles? Or does the in-house METAS-certified Co-Axial Caliber 8800 movement that is highly anti-magnetic pique your interest?
For me, the combination of the watch’s timeless design, serious tool-watch specifications and impressive materials (such as the polished ceramic elements and the highly-decorated in-house movement) are united to form a watch that demands to be worn more often in your rotation than any other watch.
Now, to get to the scoring part of this review, after carefully considering all aspects of this watch, I gave the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Professional an overall score of 89.5 points out of 100 points. Breaking that down further, I scored the design of the watch 23 points, 21.5 points for its construction, 23 points for the movement and lastly 22 points for various additional factors. For less than $6,000, you are getting a well-rounded watch that you can wear on the beach or with a business suit. The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver is worn by divers, recreational swimmers, business professionals and James Bond for a reason – it is the ultimate all-around watch with serious specs for the price. If you don’t already have one of these in your collection, what exactly are you waiting for?
Overall Score: 89.5/100
Design – 23/25 pts
1. Case (size, shape, construction, angles, finishing) – 4.5/5pts The latest generation of the Omega Seamaster Diver increases the case from 41mm, what many connoisseurs consider the “sweet spot,” to a slightly larger 42mm diameter. As a person with larger wrists, 40-42mm is really my sweet spot, and even with the incremental increase in size the watch doesn’t feel unruly. The case is constructed of stainless steel and has mostly brushed surfaces as this is, at the end of the day, a “professional” tool watch. One nice feature, though, is the polished edges that twist into Omega’s well-known lyre lugs that play with sunlight almost as well we the ceramic face.
Speaking of ceramic, there is a lot of the extremely tough material in the watch. The unidirectional bezel is a single piece of black ceramic in-laid with white ceramic numerals. The wave-patterned dial, which is a slightly updated version compared to the wavier and less-reflective prior version, is also made of the extremely durable material. Omega spent years perfecting ceramic manufacturing which is no easy feat, and the result is stunning – the dial reflects perfectly and the laser-engraved wave pattern shifts from subtle ridges to deep canyons depending on the angle.
2. Dial (color, pattern, indices, hands, chapter ring) – 5/5 pts One of my favorite aspects of this watch is the dial – it’s clean and very easy to read even in low-light conditions (an obvious requirement for any serious “dive” watch) and it’s also a mesmerizing mash of design elements that work surprisingly well together. The polished “button” applied indices are the first thing to catch your eye and are filled to the brim with Super-LumiNova. The skeletonized hands are probably the least-changed element of the Seamaster Diver and are expertly polished to reflect light against the deep-black background of the dial. The red-tipped lollipop seconds hand is also a classic design element that fits well within the overall design language and the date window (no matter how polarizing) is unobtrusive and blends into the dial seamlessly.
The wave-pattern etched into the dial has become the Seamaster Diver’s calling card since its refresh in the 1990’s. Back then, it was more of a subtly-engraved pattern that appeared like choppy water in a harbor. The latest version revamps the dial design to create elongated wave patterns that are more abstract and flow from one side of the watch to the other. The updated design’s etching is also much deeper and more pronounced – at different angles of light the dial can manifest anywhere between a smooth, glassy surface to a flat plane punctuated by deep “channels” that seem to cut right through the entire dial.
3. Strap/bracelet (material, comfort, finishing, clasp) – 4.5/5 pts I opted to order this watch with the stainless steel bracelet as I actually appreciate how little the band’s design has changed since the 90’s (with some technical improvements since then, of course), but I also purchased the matching black rubber band. Both bands are incredibly comfortable and are well-integrated with the case design – and surprisingly both bands pair well with a more formal outfit (even the rubber band). The 5-link stainless steel bracelet hasn’t changed much since the first modern iteration because of its timeless design. Most of the bracelet’s surfaces are heavily brushed to resist scratches, while the thin polished middle links dress up the watch. The clasp is a secure dual-button release design that expertly hides one of the best features of the Seamaster Diver – the micro-adjustment slide, which allows the user to add up to ½ inch of additional room. And of course, a true dive watch would not be complete without a diver’s extension (which allows the user to seamlessly wear the Seamaster over a wetsuit) that is seamlessly integrated into the micro-adjustment mechanism.
4. Bezel (indices, rotation action, scale) – 4.5/5pts The Omega Seamaster Diver’s unidirectional bezel is the clearest indication that this watch is truly a dive watch. The scalloped edges take a bit of getting used to and the mechanism is definitely more stiff than other dive watches such as models by Seiko, Rolex or Tudor. However, once the bezel is set, you don’t have to worry about knocking the bezel in either direction, which is great insurance to have while deep underwater. The ceramic insert is incredibly scratch-resistant and is highly polished to exhibit the extremely black ceramic coloring. The graduated scale (which counts back available air in a scuba tank based on the beginning time of the dive) is inlaid with stark white ceramic that contrasts nicely against the glossy black background.
5. Originality (design cues, homage, re-issue, re-design) – 4.5/5 pts Since the modern version of the Seamaster Driver professional was released in the early 1990’s, Omega has made small iterative tweaks to the design to arrive at the current version. For example, the helium escape value used to be a simple cylindrical crown (similar to the primary crown located at 3 o’clock), whereas the latest version has a more nuanced conical crown that distinguishes the helium escape valve’s function. The newly designed helium escape valve also serves a practical purpose as the conical design is less likely to dig into the wearer’s wrist – a small, but important, design change.
Perhaps the most obvious change is the dial, which has transitioned from a more subtle wavy surface to deeply-cut indentations as previously discussed in this review. The dial’s materials have also adapted to include more robust (and more difficult to work with) ceramic, demonstrating Omega’s ability to make well-executed incremental changes. Given the watch’s storied history on the wrist of James Bond and countless divers and collectors, it makes sense that Omega has chosen to make incremental improvements to the design rather than a design overhaul, and I think the end product is a watch that can’t be mistaken for its predecessors, but shares more than enough DNA.
Construction – 21.5/25 pts
1. Overall Quality (case, dial, hands, finishing) – 4.5/5 pts The Omega Seamaster Diver is undeniably solid and well-built. With its stainless steel construction and screw-down crown that seals extremely tightly, the watch is water resistant up to 300 meter (or almost 1,000 feet). Almost the entire case and bracelet has a brushed finishing which is resistant to scratches and bumps (although the clasp seems particularly susceptible to scratches, as is apparent on my watch). However, the portions of the watch that are aren’t brushed (including the side edges, hands and indices) are perfectly polished. And even though the Seamaster comes from a “professional” heritage of dive watches, the level of decoration of the movement, which is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, displays Omega’s renowned decoration abilities with its signature concentric Cotes de Geneve.
2. Materials (type of metal, rare metals, finishing technique) – 4/5 pts The entire watch (including the bracelet) is constructed from 316L stainless steel, which is known for its corrosion resistance and hardness suitable for daily use. While not the most technically advanced material (compared to other manufacturers using 904L steel or other materials such as titanium), the 316L stainless steel case retains its brushed surfaces well and does not scratch easily - even across the brushed grain.
The most impressive aspect of the watch from a materials perspective is clearly the ceramic bezel and dial, which are nearly scratch proof and will retain the deep black color permanently and will not fade even after exposure to direct sunlight. Ceramic of this quality is difficult to produce and only a handful of top manufacturers use the material (the most famous being Rolex with their Submariner model). When viewed under a macro lens, the crisp transitions between the black ceramic and white ceramic inlaid numerals on the bezel is extremely impressive as are the deep indentations cut into the dial itself.
3. Resistances (water, magnetism, shock) – 4.5/5pts With a screw-down crown and solid stainless steel construction, the Omega Seamaster Diver boasts 300m of water resistance, which is over 3 times as much resistance as most other watches. The Omega 8800 Co-Axial movement also contributes to the watches impressive specifications when it comes to resistances. First, the Omega caliber 8800 is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, which is much higher than what is typically experienced in everyday life (unless you’re an MRI technician). Second, the co-axial design of the caliber 8800 is structurally superior to typical movement designs as the movement’s bridge isolates the escapement from shocks and the co-axial technology reduces friction at the escapement (while simultaneously requiring less lubrication) and allows the watch to accurately tell time between long service intervals.
4. Ancillaries (lugs, crown, pushers and other extremities) – 4/5 pts The Omega Seamaster Diver is perhaps most recognizable due to its signature helium escape value located at the 10 o’clock position. A rare feature amongst dive watches, the helium escape valve is designed to relieve helium gas that expands in the watch case during deep dives, and thereby preventing damage to the watch’s movement.
In addition to the helium escape value (sometimes referred to as a “tumor”), the Seamaster Diver includes polished twisted “lyre” lugs and semi-polished crown guards that protect the screw-down crown. The crown itself (and the helium escape value) include deep ridges that provide sufficient grip and the crowns solidly lock into place with a rubber gasket system once fully closed.
5. Bracelet/clasp (link type, integration, mechanism) – 4.5/5 pts
The integrated stainless steel bracelet is nearly perfect, but does not come without its detractors. The steel bracelet has hardly changed over past iterations from the 90’s and early 00’s (other than the clasp mechanism), and consequently some collectors have remarked that the bracelet is stale compared to more robust and refined options (such as from Rolex or Breitling). Many of these collectors also lament that the bracelet does not taper significantly from the lugs to the clasp. However, I particularly enjoy the simple, yet elegant design of the bracelet, including the 5-link design with minimalist polished surfaces.
The real star of the show when it comes to the bracelet is the clasp, which includes a quick micro-adjustment slide that expands the bracelet in small millimeter increments for additional comfort as well as the diver extension clasp that extends the circumference of the bracelet to accommodate a wet-suit. What I particularly like about Omega’s design is the way they seamlessly integrated both of these extensions into the same clasp and ratchet system that is hidden under the hollow body of the clasp. The micro-extension is also extremely easy to use and tactile.
Movement – 23/25 pts
1. Origin of Movement (Swiss, sourced, in-house, design) – 5/5pts
It’s no secret that Omega produces some of the most technologically advanced and well-built movements in the industry, especially at the price point. Omega’s renowned co-axial movement family is proven to keep accurate time, require less maintenance than other brands and resist shocks and magnetism. In the range of $5,000-$10,000, most watches either use top-end Selitta or ETA-based movements or some entry-level in-house movements (such as Tudor’s “MT” calibers). However, Omega takes their movement development and reputation very seriously – co-axial movements pack a lot of bang for the buck and are based on Omega’s own research and manufacturing that makes this feat all the more impressive. Just looking at the movement through the transparent caseback gives a clear indication that the Seamaster Diver has something special inside – the dual-sided bridge, black hairspring and gears, ball-bearing rotor wheel and concentric Cotes de Geneve all come together to create a unique movement that other manufacturers can’t even dream to produce at such a competitive price.
2. Complication(s) (design, usefulness, integration, operation) – 4.5/5 pts While the architecture and features of the Omega Caliber 8800 are impressive, the Seamaster Diver is really a no-frills tool watch when it comes to complications. I actually appreciate the simplicity of the time-only design with just a date window at the 6 o’clock position. There is a more a complex model of the Seamaster Diver that come with bi-compax chronograph design, however, I prefer the time-only version as it feels most appropriate for a dive tool watch.
3. Accuracy (overall +/-, positions, variance) – 5/5 pts Each Omega Seamaster Diver is certified as a “Master Chronometer”, which means the movement has been dual-certified by both METAS (the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology) and COSC (the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). These certifications represent each Seamaster Diver is accurate between -0 to +5 seconds per day. At the last time I tested my personal Seamaster, it was +3 seconds per day, which is fantastic for a $6,000 watch that I wear almost daily and is subject to bumps, magnetic fields and other hazards.
Double certification under COSC and METAS requires the movement (and the entire watch) to go through a series of 8 tests, which range from magnetic tests to water resistance. In addition, the watches are tested in 6 positions (1 more than the typical 5-position test) to ensure accurate time is kept no matter how the watch is oriented. Overall, with both certifications and the “Master Chronometer” label on the face of the dial, it is evident that the Seamaster Diver is a truly capable and supremely accurate timepiece.
4. Power Reserve (length, indicator, variance) – 4/5 pts Omega’s Caliber 8800 co-axial movement is a seriously impressive watch movement. With automatic bi-directional winding, 35 jewels and beating at a frequency of 25,200 revolutions per hour (an unusual speed compared to other manufacturers), the Caliber 8800 has become Omega’s work-horse movement for many of Omega’s timepieces. The Caliber 8800 also boasts a single mainspring barrel with 55 hours of power reserve, which far exceeds the industry standard of 42 hours. I think for the price point this is acceptable, but given Omega’s expertise in movement manufacturing, I would have hoped for at least 68-72 hours of power reserve to make the watch competitive with other offerings such as Tudor.
5. Finishing/Design (decoration, finishing, architecture) – 4.5/5 pts
Omega’s attention to detail and excellent finishing techniques are on full display on the movement as seen through the transparent caseback. The concentric Cotes de Geneve decoration is probably the most eye-catching part of the watch movement and is one of Omega’s signatures. In addition, certain elements of the movement, including some gears and even the balance wheel and hairspring assembly, are colored in a deep black (the balance wheel is made out of a silicon-hybrid) and stand out against the highly polished stainless steel main plate and other parts. The rotor is decorated with red-lettering indicating the movement’s designation and many of the edges on the main plate and bridge are chamfered and polished.
Other Factors – 22/25 pts
1. Price (Value) (MSRP, secondary sales, value proposition) – 4.5/5pts The Omega Seamaster Diver retails for $5,900 on the stainless steel bracelet and $5,600 on the rubber strap and there are often discounts to be had given that this model has been out for a few years, especially overseas. For example, I purchased my version while on vacation in the Caribbean and between discounts and no VAT, I got the price down to the mid $4,000’s. However, if you want both straps it is best to purchase the watch on the stainless steel bracelet and then purchase the rubber strap separately (or used) as the stainless steel bracelet retails for about $600 separately (while the rubber strap is usually available for around $350). On the used market, the Seamaster Diver retains most of its value (especially if you purchased at a discount), but there are definitely some deals to be had on good condition watches between $4,500 to $4,800.
From a value proposition perspective, it is hard to find a more well-priced diver watch with the same specs – Omega packs a ton of value into the Seamaster Diver from the ceramic bezel and dial to the Caliber 8800 co-axial movement. It is an impressive overall package for less than $6,000 that comes from one of the most widely recognized and respected watch brands in the entire industry. It’s no wonder that Omega is one of the top three watch brands sold by volume and sales (regularly trading for second place against Cartier).
2. Quality Control (Finishing, cleanliness, mechanical, known issues) – 4.5/5 pts Omega’s reputation as a top watch brand has not developed in a vacuum – Omega currently sits within the top 3 spots of the watch industry next to Rolex and Cartier. The attention to detail and quality control on the Seamaster Diver is readily apparent – there is no dust or fine particles on the dial and the indices, hands and movement are flawlessly polished. The watch arrived running well within its tolerances (between 0 to + seconds per day) and almost 5 years later is still running within that range.
3. Certifications (COSC, METAS, manufacturer) – 5/5 pts As discussed earlier, each Omega Seamaster Diver is certified as a “Master Chronometer”, which means the movement has been dual-certified by both COSC and METAS. Most top-end watches are just COSC certified, with a few limited watches (such as Rolex and Tudor) receiving higher certifications from METAS or other independent testing laboratories. The METAS test is particularly impressive for any watch to pass as it evaluates each fully assembled watch (unlike the COSC test which tests just the movements) through various tests including magnetic exposure, water resistance, power reserve, accuracy and rate deviation.
At less than $6,000, the Seamaster Diver is a fantastic value proposition from a certification perspective as Omega’s obsession with its movement manufacturing is evident in its quest to make each movement more accurate, robust and reliable. It is no wonder that Omega’s movements, including the Caliber 8800 inside the Seamaster Diver, enjoy longer service intervals than many peers as each Omega is designed and built to be resilient and efficient.
4. Warranty (limitations, extensions, service) – 4/5 pts Each Omega Seamaster Diver comes standard with a 5-year warranty, which is more or less the industry standard. Given the watch’s robust in-house movement and solid case design, the warranty feels appropriate – however, I would have hoped for a slightly longer warranty period (7 years or longer) bolster Omega’s claim that they make one of the best watches in the industry that can stand up to daily abuse and the occasional deep dive.
5. Presentation (box, certificates, ancillary items) – 4/5 pts The Omega Seamaster Diver is delivered in Omega’s well-known blond wood presentation box. Unlike other brands which use cheaper plastic or dark laminated woods, the Seamaster Diver is presented in a very impressive and unique tan wood box along with a red leather folio that contains the watch’s guarantee, pictogram and other unique identifying information. While I would never pick one watch over another solely because of the presentation box, it is hard to argue that the Omega Seamaster Diver does not arrive in style in a unique presentation that is memorable.
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