Welcome to Chrono Pursuit, where we methodically review the most exciting watches on a 100-point scale so you can make the best-informed decisions when purchasing your next watch.
Our review process for each watch considers four primary criteria: design, construction, movement, and other factors. Each category is broken down into five sub-categories, allowing us to precisely quantify what makes a good, great, or exceptional watch.
Today, I am reviewing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Titanium edition (Ref: 5000.1210.G52A). Introduced as a modern reinterpretation of Blancpain’s iconic diver's watch from 1956, the Bathyscaphe combines vintage aesthetics with contemporary watchmaking technology. Known for its rugged durability and timeless design, this watch has been on my radar since its release. Finally, I got my hands on one and I am excited to share my thoughts.
The Bathyscaphe is an interesting watch – while it shares the “Fifty Fathoms” name with the more robust and larger model that most people attribute to Blancpain, the Bathyscaphe has mostly slipped under the radar since its introduction in 1956. Billed as a simpler, smaller and more robust sibling to the Fifty Fathoms, the Bathyscaphe was designed to be a tool watch through-and-through.
The Fifty Fathoms family of watches were developed in the early 1950’s (just before the debut of Rolex’s Submariner) by Blancpain to withstand the rigorous requirements of diving. While the original Fifty Fathoms found favor in commercial settings, the Bathyscaphe was designed for the civilian explorer looking for a robust watch that wouldn’t fail them on recreational dives.
The Fifty Fathoms family of watches were built with such impressive specs and durability at the time that the specifications for water resistance and other design requirements of the Fifty Fathoms eventually formed the basis for the ISO-6425 standard that is still used to this day to measure watches for water resistance.
From a design perspective, the Bathyscaphe is rendered in a monochrome grade 23 titanium case measuring 43.5mm by 13.5mm – making it the perfect dive watch companion that is lightweight but feels utterly solid. Powered by the extremely impressive in-house caliber 1315 boasting a 120-hour power reserve and a solid 18k white gold rotor, it is surprising that more enthusiasts haven’t caught on to the impressive work that Blancpain has been accomplishing since the re-launch of the Fifty Fathoms in 2007.
To get the scores out of the way, I rated the design of the watch 22.5 points, its impressive construction earned 22.5 points as well, the excellent movement scored an incredible 23.0 points and lastly I awarded 21 points for “other factors”. All in all, the Blancpain Bathyscaphe earned 89 out of 100 points in this review, which clearly indicates Blancpain is on to something genius with this faithful modern reinterpretation of a classic dive watch. So, let’s “dive in.”
Overall Score: 89/100
Design - 22.5 pts
1. Case (size, shape, construction, angles, finishing) – 4.5/5 pts The Bathyscaphe features a robust 43.5mm satin-brushed grade 23 titanium case, combining modern materials with the classic Fifty Fathoms tool watch design language. The watch has a thickness of 13.5mm, which, while substantial, is balanced and comfortable on the wrist. The lugs are spaced 23mm apart with a lug-to-lug distance of 49.5mm and are seamlessly integrated with sharp linear angles, providing an angular transition from the case to the strap. The overall finish is superb, with the titanium case providing a nearly scratch-proof and lightweight alternative to traditional stainless steel competitors.
2. Dial (color, pattern, indices, hands, chapter ring) – 5/5 pts The meteor-grey dial of the Bathyscaphe is simply mesmerizing. It features a vertical-brushed finish that plays beautifully with the light, adding depth and character to the watch. The luminescent white-gold indices and syringe hands are clear and easy to read, even in low light conditions. The date window at 4:30 is unobtrusive and blends well with the dial, with a match background and white lettering to minimize distractions. The minimalist design is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, staying true to Blancpain’s diving heritage.
3. Strap/bracelet (material, comfort, finishing, clasp) – 4/5 pts The sail-canvas strap is durable and comfortable, perfectly suited for a diver's tool watch. The strap’s grey tone complements the titanium case and dial, enhancing the overall aesthetic. The titanium pin buckle is sturdy and easy to use, though I would have preferred a deployment clasp for added efficiency, especially at this higher price point.
4. Bezel (indices, rotation, action, scale) – 4.5/5 pts The unidirectional bezel is one of the highlights of the Bathyscaphe. It features a “liquid-metal” insert that is made of an amorphous metal alloy that has a glass-like structure and sheen, but with the hardness of a solid metal. This bezel design ensures long-lasting legibility and durability, and comes in a monochromatic gray color that seamlessly blends with the case, dial and band. The bezel action is rigid and precise compared to other smoother bezel actions from other competitors (such as Seiko), with just the right amount of resistance that makes the watch feel like a true, solid tool watch. Each click is satisfying and locks into place convincingly, reflecting the high-quality construction of the watch.
5. Originality (design cues, homage, re-issue, re-design) – 4.5/5 pts While the Bathyscaphe pays homage to the original Fifty Fathoms bathyscaphe from the 1950’s, it stands out with its modern design, advanced movement and space-age materials. The use of grade 23 titanium and liquid-metal sets this watch apart from many other dive watches on the market, offering a unique blend of vintage inspiration and contemporary innovation.
Construction – 22.5 pts
1. Overall Quality (case, dial, hands, finishing) – 5/5 pts Blancpain’s attention to detail and quality control is evident in every aspect of the Bathyscaphe. The quality of the materials and the precision of the finishing are exceptional. The case’s angles are sharp and defined, while the movement’s bridges and plates have a defined level of polishing and chamfered edges that clearly put this tool watch into the high horology category. The white gold indices reflect an insane amount of light against the matte gray dial and the perfectly polished syringe hands also lend to the watch’s high horology characteristics.
2. Materials (type of metal, rare metals, finishing technique) – 5/5 pts The use of grade 23 titanium and liquid-metal is a testament to Blancpain’s commitment to innovation and quality. These materials are not only aesthetically pleasing but also incredibly durable, ensuring the watch can withstand the rigors of diving and daily wear. On top of that, the Caliber 1315’s rotor is made out of solid 18k white gold that has been treated with a sandblasted finishing that is truly unique compared to any other watch movement in the market.
3. Resistances (water, magnetism, shock) – 4.5/5 pts With a water resistance of 300 meters, the Bathyscaphe is well-equipped for serious diving. The Caliber 1315 movement is also a sturdy movement despite its polished decorations: the movement sports a silicon balance spring that is highly resistant to magnetism and other shocks.
4. Ancillaries (lugs, crown, pushers, and other extremities) – 4/5 pts The screw-down crown is easy to grip and operate with sharp ridges carved into titanium, contributing to the watch’s overall functionality. The lugs are well-proportioned and are curved to comfortable fit the wrist. While the lugs are sharply angled, the sharp edges of the lugs never seem to pinch any part of my wrist, which I was a bit concerned about when first purchasing this watch. The absence of chronograph pushers and any other ancillaries keeps the design ethos of the watch clean and focused on its primary purpose as a dive tool watch.
5. Bracelet/clasp (link type, integration, clasp mechanism) – 4/5 pts While the sail-canvas strap is excellent and extremely comfortable even during all-day wear, the option for a more versatile metal bracelet (made out the same grade 23 titanium) would have been appreciated. The pin buckle is secure and made out the same nearly-indestructible titanium as the rest of the watch, but a deployment clasp could have added to the overall functionality of the watch and ease of use.
Movement – 23 pts
1. Origin of Movement (Swiss sourced, in-house design) – 5/5 pts The Bathyscaphe is powered by the in-house Blancpain Caliber 1315, a testament to the brand’s watchmaking expertise. This movement is known for its reliability, precision, and impressive power reserve, which is 120 hours and powered by a triple-barrel sequential system to provide even power across all 5 days (yes, almost a week!) of power reserve. Introduced in 2008, the 1315 was originally based on Blancpain’s Cal. 13R0, which was an impressive manual-wind 8-day movement. Since 2008, the Caliber 1315 has appeared in about 60 different models created by Blancpain, making it the true workhorse movement of Blancpain’s catalog.
2. Complication(s) (design, usefulness, integration, operation) – 4/5 pts While the Bathyscaphe is not the most technically complicated watch, the date function is seamlessly integrated into the dial without disrupting the overall design. Its placement at 4:30 is unobtrusive, maintaining the watch’s clean aesthetic. Unscrewing the crown and adjusting the date and time is also a pleasant experience with solid feedback from the date wheel shifting to the next date.
3. Accuracy (overall, +/- positions, variance) – 4/5 pts The Caliber 1315 has chronometric accuracy and is adjusted in-house by Blancpain to be well within acceptable timing tolerances. As such, the Bathyscaphe is able to maintain accurate time within a few seconds per day, and my personal version stays within +3 seconds per day. This level of precision is impressive for a mechanical movement and underscores Blancpain’s commitment to excellence, however, I would have preferred to see a 3rd party certification, such as from COSC, to confirm the watch’s accuracy.
4. Power Reserve (length, indicator, variance) – 5/5 pts With a power reserve of 120 hours (5 days), the Bathyscaphe outperforms almost all of its competitors, which average 42 hours of power reserve and top-out around 70 hours (such as manufacturers like Rolex and Breitling). This extended power reserve is provided by an impressive triple barrel system which is intelligently series-coupled to provide even power distribution over the entire reserve period. This insane level of power also makes the watch practical for a lot of situations where you are only wearing this watch as part of a rotation (such as while on vacation) – it is almost guaranteed that the bathyscaphe will still be charged whenever you pick it up next.
5. Finishing/Design (decoration, finishing, architecture, rotor) – 5/5 pts The movement is beautifully finished, with perlage and Côtes de Genève decoration visible through the clear sapphire caseback. I personally enjoy the subtle radiating decorations and overall architecture of the watch. The Caliber 1315 differentiates itself from most other watch movements with a complicated bridge system and a separate rotor “assembly” that sits on top of the rest of the movement.
However, some commentators note that the design of the movement may ultimately hamper Blancpain’s ability to make smaller watches as the movement itself is 30.6mm wide and 5.6mm tall, meaning there is limited opportunity to make smaller watches without reducing or redesigning the entire movement. The rotor is also one of the most sneakily impressive parts of the watch – the solid 18k white gold rotor has an industrial blasted finish that makes the movement match excellently with the grey titanium case.
Other Factors – 21 pts
1. Price (Value) (MSRP, secondary (used), value proposition) – 4/5 pts The Bathyscaphe is priced around $12,000 brand new, which positions it in the higher end of the luxury dive watch market. However, most authorized dealers can make substantial discounts (15-20%) available, so definitely make sure you are working with a familiar AD. While it is an investment, the combination of Blancpain’s heritage, the use of advanced materials, and the in-house movement justifies the price, in my opinion. On the used market, a good condition example of the Bathyscaphe trades for around $8,000, so there is definitely room to save money, but the watch does retain good value.
2. Quality Control (Finishing, dial cleanliness, known issues) – 5/5 pts Blancpain’s rigorous quality control processes ensure that each Bathyscaphe is flawless upon delivery. The finishing is immaculate, and there are no known issues with the watch’s performance or construction. I’ve checked the dial and movement under a 10x loupe and could not find a single speck of dust, smudge or other indication that this watch was not meticulously constructed and then quality-checked by numerous professional watchmakers.
3. Certifications (COSC, METAS, manufacturer) – 3.5/5 pts While the Bathyscaphe does not carry COSC or METAS certification, Blancpain’s reputation for precision and reliability speaks for itself. The in-house Caliber 1315 is a testament to the brand’s commitment to high standards, and it is made, assembled, regulated and tested entirely in-house. However, as mentioned earlier in the review, I would have loved to see Blancpain get a COSC or even a METAS certification for the Caliber 1315 given the price of the overall watch. Adding any certification increases production costs for any watch, but for a watch in the $10,000+ retail price range, I think these certifications should be mandatory.
4. Warranty (limitations, extensions, service) – 4/5 pts I think one of the most disappointing parts of Blancpain’s overall offering is the warranty period. Just 24 months (or 36 months if purchased directly from a boutique), Blancpain’s warranty is well below the average warranty provided by more mainstream watch producers (although many high-horology manufacturers that are more comparable to Blancpain typically only offer a two-year warranty). For me, the issue is that the Bathyscaphe is supposed to be this almost-indestructible tool watch that is made out of incredibly strong grade 23 titanium, liquid-metal and sapphire crystal. To me, such a badass watch should be backed by an equally impressive warranty, which is a sign that the manufacturer truly believes in the quality of their product.
5. Presentation (box, certificates, ancillary items) – 4.5/5 pts. While I normally hate gimmicky presentation boxes such as Hublot’s winder case and other novelty cases, there is something really cool about the “Peli” case that the Bathyscaphe is presented in. First, the case weighs an impressive amount and is an authentic waterproof Pelican case that can take a beating. Second, the whole presentation of the Bathyscaphe as a luxury tool watch blends with the chic-industrial styling of the presentation case and the interior materials.
In summary, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (5000 1210 G52A) is a remarkable timepiece that blends historical design with contemporary watchmaking excellence. Its robust construction, stunning dial, and reliable movement make it a worthy addition to any watch collection, especially for those who appreciate the finer details and advanced materials. However, for over $12,000, I would have expected some better options such as a deployant clasp, COCS or METAS certifications and a longer warranty period to convince consumers that this watch is truly worth splashing out more money than the average Rolex Submariner. That being said, I always feel something special when putting this watch on, and it certainly has held up well during all of my adventures and even shifted from a saltwater swim day to an evening formal wear situation with incredible poise expected from the oldest watch brand.
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